Phnom Penh

Today I gained a whole new perspective on Cambodians and the beautiful country I am experiencing. This morning we went to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek which is the site of 129 mass graves and evidence of atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge dictatorship which ruled the country in the 70s. 

Officially called the Communist Party of Kampuchea, policies were set up that disregarded human life and produced repression and massacres on a huge scale, with the aim of  turning the country into a rural, classless society. Thousands of people were turfed out of cities to work in the countryside, many of whom died along the way. If they were unfortunate enough to stay alive, they toiled for 12 hours a day or more to produce an unachievable amount of rice, a quota set by Pol Pot, the regimes leader. 

Many Cambodians who threatened the movement such as intellects were caught and taken to S-21 prison where they were detained, interrogated and tortured until they confessed to crimes they were not guilty of. Then they were executed. As the extent of the killing grew, many prisoners were taken from S-21 to the Killing Fields where they would then be made to kneel at the foot of a mass grave before being hacked or bludgeoned to death. Bullets were too precious to be used. Even more horrifying, babies were killed by being battered against a tree before being tossed into an open grave. When the site was found, blood, hair and scalp were found on the tree which is still standing today. The largest of the mass graves was found to hold 450 corpses, of the 8985 exhumed at Choeung Ek. 

Fragments of bone, teeth and cloth are still being churned up by the frequent rains meaning wardens are collecting yet more debris every few months, as if the spirits of the dead cannot rest in peace. 

To get a sense of perspective of the devastation which killed around 1.7 million people, one in every four people would have died one way or another at the hands of monsters.

A Memorial Stupa is the centre point at Choeung Ek and it houses more than 8000 skulls and bones which have been documented in to categories determined by how the person was killed. I was clearly able to see gaping holes in the skulls where blunt instruments were used to murder the helpless people in cold blood. 

S-21 was a school prior to the genocide and so is set up in blocks surrounding a now grassy courtyard. Now it is the Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide and there are exhibitions displaying mugshots of prisoners all of whom have a look of tragic resignation on their faces, horrific black and white photos of unearthed mass graves and actual torture tools used including the remnants of gallows used to torture the prisoners. The atmosphere is chilling. 

For the last three decades, Cambodia has suffered unimaginable horrors that still greatly affect the population today. With the increase of tourists curious to learn more, money generated can help those who have been left destitute by the Khmer Rouge regime and encourage a revival of the Cambodian people. 

Battambang

Although we were only able to stay in Battambang for one night il always remember it with fond memories thanks to the afternoon we had doing exciting activities. Once we had arrived at the guesthouse we sped straight off in a tuk-tuk to get the Bamboo Train. Whilst that might create visions of grandeur I can assure it it's nothing of the sort. A nori, or train in Khmer, is made up of a frame made from bamboo sat atop barbell-like runners with an open engine at the back. Once seated on threadbare cushions we careered down the warped single track, bumping over misaligned rails for around 30 minutes; at one point we were whizzing down the line at around 15km/h! The train line was hot property so at certain points we had to hop off to easily dismantle our cart to let others in the opposite direction pass leaving groups stood by the side of the track like meerkats peering over the shrubbery to see if they could begin the adventure once more.

The views were of an average countryside and we chose an overcast day to do it on but it was pure unadulterated joy to throw caution (and health and safety) to the wind and do something a little reckless and exciting for a change. We were both buzzing from the train journey as we zoomed across town to the circus which is performed by students from the Phare Ponleu Selpak association. The name, meaning 'the brightness of the arts,' aptly describes the opportunities provided; artistic and cultural activities are available for underprivileged children and families to support national peaceful development. Although I had read good reviews, I wasn't sure what to expect and I pushed back thoughts of 'amateur' performances to the back of my mind. How wrong I could have been! With a troupe of only around eight people and with few props used, the range of acts shown in the hour long show were fantastic. The performers were incredibly talented showcasing complex acrobatics to engaging acting, from diablo twirling and fire dancing to juggling; the scenes created were ingenuity at its finest and the whole audience from locals and tourists, young and old were captured in the moment, rewarding those on stage with rapturous applause. I felt an all over sense of goodness as we left knowing that not only had I thoroughly enjoyed myself but that the entry fee would be invested into the programme so it could only grow from strength to strength! 
Battambang was an impromptu stop over on our way to the capital Phnom Penh but it turned out to be a very worthwhile detour and a place I wish we could have stayed longer. 

Siem Reap

In order to have more time in Penang, and because it was only marginally more expensive, we decided to fly back to Kuala Lumpur in order to make our flight the next morning to Siem Reap, Cambodia. This was our first destination in Southeast Asia and one that I was really looking forward to. Siem Reap has reinvented itself a chic tourist city which whilst catering for the western demands of foreigners still has its own character.

The reason behind this reinvention is its proximity to the ancient site of Angkor with temples as evidence of the Cambodian 'god-kings' striving for temples of great size, scale and symmetry. Stretching over 400square kilometres, Angkor is the remains of the Khmer Empire from the 9th to the 15th century, and with Angkor Wat at the helm, it is one of the most important archeological sites in Southeast Asia for its cultural, religious and symbolic nature. 
We hired a tuk-tuk and driver for the day and set off to the first stop of Angkor Wat. Following a stone causeway across the moat surrounding the site, the looming compound comes into view. From this location, we felt the need to continue and 'get to the wonderous five domes, companions of the sky, sisters of the clouds and determine whether or not one lives in a world of reality or in a fantastic dream'  (From Helen Churchill Candee's book, Angkor: The Magnificent, The Wonder City of Ancient Cambodia).
Because of its size, it is difficult to grasp the layout of the temple city which is a series of elevated towers, covered galleries, chambers, porches and courtyards on different leveles linked by stairways. These stairs are thought to 'make us force to a halt at beauteous obstructions (so) that the mind may be prepared for the atosphere of sanctity' (Candee). The size is deceiving because of the layout but it stands at 213 feet, making it almost twice the height of Paris' Notre Dame Cathedral. We entered the temple and walked through the passage ways with beautifully intricate carvings on the wall before reaching the central tower, all the while passing shrines appearing behind the haze of burning incense and monks dressed in bright orange going about their daily life. The central tower symbolises the mythical Mount Meru which is situated at the centre of the universe. Although a considerable amount of restoration work has been done, its age is apparent in some places but that all adds to the character; it is also a reminder that this magnificent structure took only 30 years to build.
Next on our self-guided tour was Angkor Thom which was the religious and administrative centre of the powerful Khmer empire. Once the residence of the king, officials and priests, the grandeur has faded a little with age but the fact still remains that this 'great city', as the name translates, is exactly that. As with all the sites within the Angkor complex, there were a great deal of tourists baying for that perfect photo or to feel the spirituality of the place. Whilst it is somewhat annoying to be pushed and shoved, it is testament to how important the site is, not only when it was built but over ten centuries later. 

Following our exploration of Angkor Thom we then puttered along in the tuk-tuk to Ta Prohm. which rose in popularity after it featured in the Lara Croft Tomb Raider film. Left untouched by archeologists, the temple is shrouded in jungle giving it an ethereal atmosphere and allowing visitors to get a sense of how the early explorers would have found it. Nature has truly taken a hold of Ta Prohm leading the Rt Hon M MacDonald to write in his book Angkor and the Khmers, that the 'temple is held in a strangehold of trees. Stones and wood clasp each other in grim hostility; yet all is silent and still, without any visable mobemnt to indicate a struggle - as if they were wrestlers suddenly petrified, struck motionless in the midle of a fight. The rounds in this battel were not measured by minutes, but by centuries.'
The day spent at the Angkor Archeological Site was amazing to see for ourselves why each and every compound within the complex is so revered around the world. Much like the Incas who built Machu Piccu in Peru, the Khmers faced all logistical challenges to build a magnificent feat of religious dedication. 

Malaysia

From Singapore the next stop was Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. As Singapore is an island we caught the bus over to Johor Bahru in mainland Malaysia where, after passing through customs, caught a connecting bus to Kuala Lumpur. The difference in countries was obvious as soon as we crossed over. Malaysia is still more developed than I had expected, with a lot of western influences, but the edges were abit messier and the appearance a little more dilapidated. We reached Kuala Lumpur to find the heat was just as stifling as we had recently experienced elsewhere so when we finally found our hostel after lugging 20kg of baggage around, it was like a mirage emerging out of the desert.

Right next door to the hostel was the Hindu Sri Mahamariamman temple, the oldest in Kuala Lumpur. For the next hour or so we wandered barefoot amongst the devout, curiously watching the ritual and routine of deity worship and prayer. Several smaller shrines circling the main prayer hall which was bustling as a puja, or service, was about to begin. Watching from a respectful distance, soles of feet pointing away from the spiritual alter, we saw how the priests brought fire, water and coloured paste around to the congregation who in turn wafted the flame towards them, drank then tipped drops of water on their heads and smeared the paste on their foreheads. I cant claim to understand any of the religious meanings of these rituals, however it was a sight to behold, all to the soundtrack of traditional Hindu music.

Although we were staying in Chinatown there was an incredibly noticeable Indian presence and so in preparation to our adventures in India itself we found a cafe where we bumbled along with the staff to order some food. In broken english they assured us that none of the buffet choices were spicy... however even before the first mouthful had been swalled a wall of heat hit my tastebuds and knocked them for six! The food was delicious but I really struggled with the heat and the ensuing consequences eg the dreaded runny nose!! I felt as if my brain had been sizzled so in a subdued, full tummy haze we ambled back to the hostel where we relaxed for the rest of the evening, chatting with other guests and reading our books. No one ever said the backpacking life was rock and roll!

KL's main draw is the glass and steel Petronas Towers which stand at almost 452m and are a representation of Malaysias vision to be a global power. On the walk there I was expecting to find just two twin towers, take a quick photo then go off elsewhere to explore the city. However when we got there I was pleasantly surprised to find that the towers are not only offices and apartments but a social hub of community with a vast landscaped garden, water features, open-air swimming pool and sprawling indoor shopping centre. Infact, the only hint towards the companies oil and petrol presence in the industry was the two Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula 1 cars suspended in the foyer.

I had succumbed to the heat so hopped on the Light Rapid Transit public transport system and was soon back in Chinatown just in time to beat the thundering showers which came down in the afternoons almost as regular as clockwork providing a light relief as it dampened the muggy weather.

KL is a melting pot of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures and the source of some of the best food in the country however there is only so much eating that can be done and with only a few sights to be seen, one full day was enough for us.

The following day we boarded a bus heading for the island of Penang located off the northwest coast of the mainland. The draw of the 'Pearl of the Orient' is its ability to embrace modernity whilst retaining its traditions and old world charm as the East meets West. The capital, Georgetown, has recently been listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site and was our base for the next few days.

A long hot bus journey does nothing for the spirit of exploration and so with our energy sapped we didnt do much that afternoon. In the evening, a handful of bicycle-come-foodstalls, called hawkers, set up camp right near our hostel offering so many mouth-watering chinese delights. Many stalls only sell one dish and often it is recipe-less, having been passed down from generation to generation; this is the sort of thing we love, to really get under the skin of a place and get involved with local life!

First course (!) was Char Kwey Tiaw or fried noodles in soy sauce with egg and seafood. Literally within minutes our chef, a little old lady who spoke no english, had thrown all those ingredients in a sizzling wok where she worked her magic and served the steaming dish to us, as we sat on plastic chairs by the side of the road as is typical of this kind of dining. (It may sound abit grungy but when the food is fresh and its a popular haunt with locals and tourists, you can usually trust your delicate digestive system with it!)
Mastering the art of chopsticks we wolfed down what would be our first course, paid the measly delightfully cheap bill then went off for something more to satisfy us - as all the food is alot lighter than that of Western proportions, it is easier to eat more without feeling quite so guilty about your waistline!
Our next dish was Popiah which are like spring rolls, only with a lighter casing and filled with shredded vegetables, soya noodles, peanuts and spicy sauce. A crunchy taste sensation! Sometimes it is difficult to know what it is that you're ordering, with no english translation or picutes for help, but my culinary horizons have been broadened because of trying something completely strange and new!

The next day we caught the bus across the island to Penang National Park which lines the sandy shores of the island. The ultimate destination was Monkey Beach, so called because of the crab-eating Macaques that live here. It turns out that they dont just eat crabs. As we were following the trail, a troop of around 15 monkeys blocked our way and began making threatening noises. As there were babies clinging to their mothers, I knew that the animals would be territorial so threw down my bag and retreated to a safer distance. As soon as I'd cleared some space a couple of them pounced and ripped the plastic bag to shreds, stealing my oranges and scampering off... now i know where the 'cheeky monkeys' phrase comes from!!
As soon as we'd resumed walking a lizard, probably 1.5-2m in length, crossed our path to ensure I was satisfactorily freaked out! Needless to say I didnt make the full hour-long walk through even denser jungle to Monkey Beach, but settled for the next open sandy spot available with just enough distance between me and the wildlife! We spent the afternoon lazing on the beach with the sound of the ocean as our soundtrack. 

We went back to Penang later that day and realised we'd gotten a little bit burnt under the hazy, Malaysian sun - not ideal!! That evening we walked down the esplanade where we ate overlooking the bay then went to a exhibition in the park dedicated the the Transformers film. It was quite a random discovery but interesting none the less!

The next day we were leaving but not until the evening so decided to explore the city. Georgetown is the canvas for Lithuanian-born Ernest Zacharevic official street art which is increasing in popularity since it was first commissioned in 2012. Some of the work even incorporates real-life three dimensional props such as 'Brother and Sister on a swing" where the children are painted on to the wall, yet the swings are real. This is an interesting concept and one that gathers the crowds and gets them involved in the art work.

Penang is not as I had expected; I had pictured high rises crammed onto an island, as an extension of Kuala Lumpur but despite it being an economic hub it has a small-town feel to it and one that compliments the beaches, food, culture and lifestyle it offers. A must-do if you are ever that way on in the world!!

Singapore

From Yogyakarta we flew over the Java Sea into Singapore where 2015 is a big year as it marks 50 years of independence. It's British history is still absolutely evident though as english is primarily the first language and all aspects of British life eg driving on the left, the plug sockets and the street names are replicated here. However that's not to say that there is not a strong eastern culture to be experienced. We stayed in Chinatown where the streets are crammed full of eateries, spas and supermarkets all dedicated to the Oriental. I had managed to persuade my travel companion to get the open top bus with me as although we prefer to find our own way around, I have to admit that it is my guilty pleasure! It turned out to be a great idea as the heat was witheringly humid and the sights quite spread out. Our first stop was Gardens by the Bay which is a sprawling botanical garden. 30 meter 'supertrees' dominate the skyline, and provide vertical gardens as a host of greenery has been planted to grow and intertwine around the wire framing. At such a height, they compete with some buildings within sight of the gardens, creating a mega forest within the city reaches.
For the rest of the afternoon we whizzed around the city taking in the sights ranging from colonial hotel buildings and monuments to slick silver high rises and a London Eye-esque Singapore Flyer.

The following day we were back on the bus on the way to the Art Science Museum where a Dreamworks Animation Exhibition was on show, the first installation of a five year world tour. Here we succumbed to our childish inner selves and delved in to the creative world surrounding us as we learnt about the story creating process and animation tricks of the trade. Following the walk through exhibition we created comic sketches and turned them into a flip-pad creating a moving story, played with lighting and texture tools to recreate classic animation scenes and entered into a theatre with a wrap-around screen to simulate the experience of riding on a dragon... a completely normal experience, you understand! Whilst we were in the museum we went to a exhibiton created by The Straits Times, Singapores highest‐selling English language newspaper. It was so interesting to learn about the relatively short history of this modern, fast‐moving country and how it was brought back from dangerous territory after fire ravaged a huge chunk of the flimsy housing structures in the 60´s.

We spent quite a long time at the exhibition but afterwards took a walk across the Helix Bridge (so called for its likeness to the genetic arrangement of DNA) towards the landmark Merlion statue which is the national personification of Singapore, lending towards Singapore's original name of Singapura which means "lion city." After taking a few photos and being the classic tourist we hopped back on the bus towards the buzzing Little India district where its possible to entirely submerse yourself in the culture and forgot for a while of where you actually are in the world. All around there are the bright colours of flower garlands, the whiff of incense and hunger-inducing food and the melodic lull of Indian music. We found a cafe (I cant call it a restaurant as it wasn't as glamorous as that word betrays) and ordered two Murtabaks, savoury pancakes stuffed with shredded mutton, onion and a complimentary mix of spices. And it was incredible! So delicious and filling, we could hardly believe how cheap it was. It certainly pays to go outside your comfort zone and try new things! A little downpour halted our adventures but soon enough we were back on the bus. Singapore is a visually appealing city with a mixture of artistically created structures and slick buildings creating an interesting cityscape to look across from the comfort of an open top bus.


That evening we went to a Chinatown street food market ‐ all we seem to do is eat! ‐ which had a great atmopshere as regulars to the cuisine chowed down on tasty dishes from the Orient, sat along side newcomers tentitavely approaching the steaming food with chopsticks in hand. After this we took the walk across town to the world famous Raffles Hotel, so famous infact that the Government há recently named it a National Monument. It is here thát the Singapore Sling cocktail was created and such was the reason of our visit. Wheras from the outside the hotel shouts decadence and grandeur, I was a little taken aback by the design of the Long Bar. In its aim to recreate the earthy feel of Malaysian plantation life in the 20´s, it is somewhat inelegant. Wicker chairs sit atop the chequered floor which has thousands of peanut shells littered around and rattan fans swing idly above guests ‐ yet more of a homage to the history of the bar. The cocktail is a bright pink colour, given this hue when it was first created to entice ladies to drink it in a society where it was frowned upon. It is a refreshing cocktail much needed in the withering heat, with not too strong an alcoholic flavour which can ruin a cocktail. We had a fun few hours here scattering the peanut shells on the floor and sipping our cocktails ‐ the price tag of £17 was not quite so enjoyable but its all part and parcel of the experience and one im glad I have under my belt! 

I thororoughly enjoyed Singapore, from learning about its history and how it has turned itself into a powerhouse of an economy to seeing the contemporary backdrop of life for Singaporeans. I would go so far as to say I could see myself living here!

Indonesia

The next chapter in our adventures would begin with Bali, Indonesia. Although I was sad to be leaving Australia after a whirlwind visit, I was excited to push the boundaries again and experience new cultures. This excitement was tinged with apprehension however as Mount Ruang, an erupting volcano on an Indonesian island, threatened to delay our departure due to strong winds blowing an ash cloud over Bali, grounding flights in and out. Luckily a window as clearness appeared for us and we made our flight as scheduled, landing in Bali and being hit with a wall of humidity and heat - just what we were wanting!!

We were staying in Seminyak which is in the southwest of the island, an area extremely popular with tourists due to its proximity with the airport, it's never-ending beaches and a tourism industry creating a home away from home experience.

The next day, having spent the previous afternoon relaxing by the ocean, we caught a boat to Gili Trawangan, an island across the Lombok Strait, which is a popular destination for tourists seeking the paradise experience. 
When we were arrived I was taken aback by just how many tourists there were; other than the shopkeepers, hotel owners and restaurant workers, not a local was in sight. Those local that we did come into contact with were unapproachable, unfriendly and glum-looking, perhaps a side-affect of being swept up in the tourism machine that is consuming the island. We found a quaint guesthouse to stay away from the main strip and ventured down to the beach where we stayed for the rest of the day. The island itself is naturally beautiful. Although the sand is mainly made up of spiteful sharp coral, the water is a hazy aquamarine colour and with gentle waves lapping the shores it is easy to float in the balmy waters. 

We enjoyed some street food that evening at an open-air food market. It was abit of a steal for the variety and range we got, essentially from a glorified buffet, considering how expensive even the most basic foods were in the restaurants. We soon found out that the aggressively advertised drinks were also expensive, which was no skin of our nose as the thought of neon-lit bars offering drinking games and karaoke didn't really appeal to us.

The next morning we got the boat back to Bali, all the while feeling glad that we had only stayed one night on Gili T. Perhaps in hindsight we should have gone to lesser frequented Gili A or Gili M for our peaceful island retreat. 

Straight from the quay we went off to Ubud which is in the northern direction, closer to the centre of the island. Along with the Seminyak area, Ubud holds the duopoly over tourism in Bali. However it has fiercely held on to its traditions and culture making it a place which we thoroughly enjoyed. When we arrived we went to Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana or The Sacred Monkey Forest to you and I. This sanctuary's mission is to create peace and harmony for the visitors, in line with Hinduism philosophy, and is also home to three temples and five groups of Balinese long-tailed Macaque monkeys. The dense swatch of jungle creates the perfect atmosphere to wander around in, taking in the not-so-cute monkeys and holy temples.

After we'd visited here we spent the afternoon exploring Ubud where we saw traditional dance shows, important for their role in passing stories from generation to generation, and children's organisations taking to the streets dressed as dragons to the sound of music to raise money; all examples of how proud the locals are of their culture and that tourism won't change that. 
We got a bite to eat at a restaurant-come-living room of the chef where we sat on wicker mats under a single light bulb devouring delicious homemade dishes. I would have really liked to stay longer in Ubud however we had to get back to the airport for our flight to Yogyakarta, Java. I have to admit that Bali didn't quite live up the expectations I had (don't watch the film Eat, Pray, Love if you're planning to come here!) but between its sandy beaches, impossibly green rice terraces and strong religious and cultural influence, it really has alot to offer to a menagerie of travellers! 

After a quick flight we arrived in Yogyakarta, a city which quickly found a place in my 'favourite places' list. Although it is one of the bigger cities in Java, the pace towards modernisation is slower and in turn has sustained many a traditional aspect on daily life and according to Lonely Planet it is "a city of art and culture and a hotbed of Javanese intellectual and political thought." 
On the first day we went off to the Kraton, or palace, of the Sultan with images of glittering palaces and treasures at the front of our minds. We were sorely disappointed however when we arrived to find a sparse compound of burnt grass with pavilions housing weird mannikins displaying life at the Kraton - perhaps we should have known what we were letting ourselves in for paying only 7,000 Rupiah (around 30p!). We aimlessly wandered around the city that afternoon in the baking sun, having dinner in a rooftop cafe down a hidden gang, or alleyway. 

We were up literally at the crack of dawn the following morning to catch the sunrise over Borobudor temple, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. The sunrise was disappointing as a blanket of cloud obscured our view and it wasn't quite the intimate special moment I had in mind; perhaps the 200 other tourists thought the same thing! 

The temple itself though is an impressive monument, one that was built to represent a mandala, the symbolic circular figure. Steps leading up through carved gateways lead to the top which represents the journey to nirvana, the Busdhist heaven. It was difficult to get a sense of spirituality because so many people were there pushing and shoving and asking us for photos, which is a bizarre experience. By the time we left we felt like celebrities! Although the religious aspect goes over my head, Borobudor is an extremely impressive work of art.



The next day we set off to Pranbanan temple, this time on our own rather than as a tour like we had done the day before. Jogja, the affectionate nickname for the city, has a well developed transport system so we rode the bus through neighbourhoods for around an hour before we arrived at the temple. Pranbanan is the grandest Hindu temples complex in Java and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

It was built in the 9th century and consists of three main temples for gods Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu then has more than 220 other temples and shrines near by. Many of the structures suffered extensive damage in a 2006 earthquake and whilst restoration work is ongoing, it is slow with many still in a dilapidated state. For me, the cracks and crumbling blocks give the site even more character to make it an unmissable historical item on your 'must see' list. Similar to Borobudor, the place was heaving with tourists, many of whom were here to celebrate Ramadan so we took a walk around the complex which sprawls for miles and took in the other smaller temples in the sunshine. Even if temples and religion are not your thing, Pranbanan offers the setting for a nice relaxed day to meander around the grounds, have some lunch or even play on the swings! 

That evening we explored the rabbit warren of alleyways trailing away from our hostel, like kids at a maze and happily got lost, investigating all the little shops tucked away. After another tasty dinner - Javanese food is exceptional - we retired to bed as we had an early morning flight to Singapore! Whilst nothing special to look at, Jogja provided up with a great couple of days and should definitely be held in its own light and not just a place to stay to explore the neighbouring temples. 

Sydney

The realisation that my time in Australia was almost over properly hit home when I landed in Sydney from Melbourne. Sydney although not the capital is possibly the most famous city in the vast country. I stayed within the CBD or Central Business District which is where tourists wander aimlessly around in between hardened city workers dressed in designer clothes push through the crowds. There is an enormous amount of wealth in Sydney and living here I experienced it first hand. The price of living is generally higher than other cities; I learned that a stay in a hotel under the Harbour Bridge overlooking the Opera House would set you back $34,000 (almost £16,000) for a minimum stay of two nights!

On my first day I met with a friend and we took the 40 minute ferry across the harbour to Manly. This beachside suburb of Northern Sydney is a place where carefree urban sophistication comes naturally to those living in this beauty spot. We followed a path which ambles along the coast passing surfers, restaurant diners, mums pushing strollers on a morning work out and people enjoying the laid-back atmosphere in the sunshine. After we had fish and chips on the beach (such tourists!) we caught the ferry back and as it turned the final corner towards Circular Quay where we would depart, the Opera House and Harbour Bridge loomed into sight with the setting sun hovering in the background - what a sight! This iconic skyline is so much more impressive in real life and definitely worth the international attention it receives! 
 

The following day I made the walk towards the Royal Botanic Gardens where I whiled the afternoon away wandering around the different areas of horticulture and heritage, learning as I went. The garden is a place of peace and relaxation and also a hub of activity with many joggers using the route through the gardens for their daily exercise fix.  

After Id spent a few hours here, it was time to walk to the Bridge Climb office where I would start the ascent up the Harbour Bridge! A full safety briefing ensued including a body frisk and a scan in a metal detector and then it was time to get kitted out in completely unflattering all-in-one suits which everything has to be attached to - I even had to secure my glasses to a piece of rope which I can assure you was not one of my finer moments! The climb would take about three hours and so we set off across the lower trusses toward the steep enclosed staircase that would take us to the start point. The bridge is the  largest steel arch bridge in the world standing at 134m. Taking eight years to build it was officially opened in 1932 to connect north and south Sydney.

*Fun Fact: The arch can actually rise and fall about 180mm due to temperature change!*

On our way up any inhibitions about being so high above the water were completely forgotten as there was so much to see. From high rises, open parks, waterside condos, theme parks, Taronga zoo to harbours, islands and a bunch of different sized boats bobbing in the water every second was used in absorbing everything in sight. 

At certain points our leader stopped us to give us some information on the bridge and its history, or to take photos, and so after taking a steady climb we reached the top just in time to watch the sun set leaving the sky a shade of burnt orange which three dimensionally reflected off of the clouds hovering over the horizon. I couldn't stop looking at it it was that beautiful! As soon as the sun went down the city came alive as it turned into a twinkling beacon of light in amongst the silent waters that surround it. 

Crossing over from the west of the east side of the bridge, the pathway is directly over the eight lanes of traffic, the two train lines and two bike tracks that support the cities transport needs. With the lit up cars moving like ants beneath us towards and away from the concrete jungle I really got a sense of perspective with how high we were, how lucky the people passing below us are to witness these sights every day but more so, just how lucky I was that Id have the opportunity to take this climb and see an iconic city from a different viewpoint. A big thank you goes to my parents for buying this climb for me as an early birthday present, it was worth every cent!!